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KTM 450 2008

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wolfy
shocker
curl666
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Post by crm250dude Thu Nov 12, 2015 6:56 pm

I cut out at the weekend in a deep bog and she wouldn't start becaused of this - gonna do what it says on that forum - cheers phil josh john dave - whatever your name is

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Post by phil990 Thu Nov 12, 2015 7:41 pm

Sir to ew...
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Post by crm250dude Thu Nov 12, 2015 7:44 pm

sorry sir
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Post by Mathew_3066 Thu Nov 12, 2015 8:53 pm

Bloody hell I've been looking for the past two days. Some people are saying run them all apart from the float drain vent.

I'll do as it says on that link...cheers Very Happy Very Happy
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Post by crm250dude Thu Nov 12, 2015 9:00 pm

mathew3066 wrote:Bloody hell I've been looking for the past two days. Some people are saying run them all apart from the float drain vent.

I'll do as it says on that link...cheers Very Happy Very Happy

the power of SWTR - these lot know their shizzle from their nizzle Razz
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Post by Mathew_3066 Sat Nov 14, 2015 4:43 pm

thanks everyone for your input, sorted the hot start problem turned out to be the spark pug cap.

took the old cap off and it fell apart in my hand fitted the new one and bang it fired up Very Happy

I fitted the extended fuel screw, wound it all the way and turned it back 1.75/2 turn which it stated in the manual, starter the bike and let it warm up.

I then found the screw in so the revs would fall but I would the screw all the way in until it hit the stop and the bike carried on running. so does this mean the pilot jet needs changing or can I try adjust the clip on the needle???

I've played about both way with the fuel screw and it still bogs a little bit on a hard blip of the throttle, so I'm thinking the jets have to be wrong. the pilot jet is the standard 42, to be honest i didnt check the main jet.

Has anyone re jetted their engine without buying the JD kit, if so what size jets did they use ??

Thanks again for all your help you've cured my hot start problem Chink
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Post by dai 530 Sat Nov 14, 2015 6:03 pm

There's a special tool to do the mixture
Bikes dont like to be revved in that manner all the bikes ive had have always splutter or missed a beat when revved like that
set it up as good as you can and go for a quick ride and see how it performs
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Post by curl666 Sat Nov 14, 2015 7:21 pm

Standard is 42 idle, 185 main.

To set the idle:

* set the mixture screw at base of carb to factory spec
* warm engine up
* use the black wheel knob to set the idle, just go off what sounds right, but the manual States 1400-1500 if you can measure it
* turn the mixture screw clockwise until speed drops, take note of the screw position, turn mixture screw anti clockwise until speed drops, then set the mixture screw at the midpoint from these two positions.

After you have tried the above, if you are still not happy id check float height, choke is definitely closing fully, air leaks on manifold rubbers, but if you can still screw the mixture all the way in and the bike continues to idle then go for a smaller idle jet.

Just for reference the black knob, is adjusting the slide height of the throttle.

Turning the mixture screw:
clockwise = lessfuel/lean
counterclockwise = more fuel/rich

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Post by Mathew_3066 Sat Nov 14, 2015 7:28 pm

curl666 wrote:Standard is 42 idle, 185 main.

To set the idle:

* set the mixture screw at base of carb to factory spec
* warm engine up
* use the black wheel knob to set the idle, just go off what sounds right, but the manual States 1400-1500 if you can measure it
* turn the mixture screw clockwise until speed drops, take note of the screw position, turn mixture screw anti clockwise until speed drops, then set the mixture screw at the midpoint from these two positions.

After you have tried the above, if you are still not happy id check float height, choke is definitely closing fully, air leaks on manifold rubbers, but if you can still screw the mixture all the way in and the bike continues to idle then go for a smaller idle jet.

Just for reference the black knob, is adjusting the slide height of the throttle.

Turning the mixture screw:
clockwise = lessfuel/lean
counterclockwise = more fuel/rich

Thats exactly what I done, I did it with the manual infront of me.

with the fue screw in it didnt cut out then there was a bang and smoke from the air filter. adjusted the fuel screw back 2 turns started it up and it seemed okay.

Bike just seems to be popping and banging too much when you open the throttle.

would adjusting the needle clip be worth looking at??

I think what I'm better off doing is setting it up as good as possible and take it for a blast and see what it rides like and go from there

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Post by curl666 Sat Nov 14, 2015 7:44 pm

I set it up on my 660 supermoto and it done as you said, loud bang, blew the air filter off its housing Smile

If you have the manual I'd just set everything as per the factory settings including the needle clip position, take it for a blast and see how it runs.

Is your bike running any non standard parts, like exhaust, air filter etc?

The manual will give you a graph of the revs showing at what rpm the idle jet is used and when the main jet comes in.


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